From time immemorial, women have been using some form of perfume or cosmetics, and creams can have used medicinally too, so to add creams to my posts is obvious. So I hope this post is very helpful to those who want try to make their own.

The specific purpose of a ‘Cream’ is to nourish, protect, soothe and heal. They are an ’emulsion’ for a better word, much lighter than a poultice, and much thinner than a ointment or salve.

Creams could be considered a type of ointment, but they really deserve their own category. Because like so many areas of herbalism, there are similarities, but also enough differences that they need to be categorised differently.

An interesting way to help with categorising a cream, is to say that a cream is either water added to oil or oil added to water, depending on what is being made.

Now most people would say, “but you cant mix oil with water”, but if you use some form of an emulsifier, you can, and depending on how you mix it, the water becomes suspended in the oil.

But why the oil and water mix? If you think about it, a cream is so special, what two things do you have on your skin all at the same time?

Oil and Water!

So by definition and design, a cream is especially designed, ’emulsifying oil and water together” for the skin like no other product.

Now creams do use other additives, which are very important, because then you can get ‘special’ in your design of each type of cream and literally use a different cream for different parts of the body for different occasions.

Some of the more common ingredients are: beeswax, vegetable oils, herbs in the form of essential oils, tinctures, herbal oils, and powders, lanolin and of course water or a water based product such as an infusion/tea or decoction.

At times another product is added such as borax, which acts as a preservative, preventing moulds from forming or directly adding vitamins, like vitamin E, which is very common, because its benefits to the skin, or even minerals/metals such as zinc.

Reasons why to make your own Cream

One of the simplest reasons I can think of for making your own creams is the personal empowerment of making something yourself. So, not only would there be the pleasure of putting on the cream, but you have the satisfaction of knowing that you made it.

One added form of satisfaction that can be gained from making your own is that you can tailor make your cream to your preferences of aromas, textures, flavours, thicknesses, colours, to cater for your mental and emotional sense and even your personal beliefs.

Several examples of these could be:

  • You wanted to match a colour to suit your skin colour: to darken or lighten
  • A colour to suit your favourite sports team whilst protecting your skin
  • You wanted to flavour the cream in case someone gave you a kiss
  • Your partner has a specific preference to a perfume, say musk
  • You wanted to remind someone of that pine forest you went to
  • You are using an aroma as a form of therapy
  • Certain textures of some cream bother you
  • You want a thicker cream that would stay for longer or give better protection
  • Maybe you don’t want a fragrance at all
  • Or you have a belief system that you are abiding with, e.g. no alcohol

Another reason is that due to creams being so close to your own skin’s anatomical make-up, any chemicals found in a bought cream, could easily cross your skin barrier and enter in. This is very serious for some people and could make them very ill.

So, if there is an unwanted chemical in that bought cream, it is most likely going to pass into your body. Thankfully, there are very excellent organic products on the market, but they are often very expensive, and practically most people just cannot afford it.

I have heard that in the USA, some women’s liver have to process up to 2 kg / 4.4 lbs of chemicals absorbed through the skin each year.

How to do Creams

How to do creams is really a tricky one, not because they are hard to make, but because there are so many types, uses and possible combinations that they are too numerous to describe.

But, I will describe a few, because we all need something to get us going and to gain the confidence to attempt more interesting ones, and one of the purposes of doing these posts is to empower my readers to give it a go, let alone the health benefits.

So first, here are some suggestions to get you going, I have provided some instructions for two types and a video to help get you started. But to add to this, I have some suggestions in the “Variations of Creams” too.

Cream Base Recipe

This recipe below, if you remove the herbs, can become a ‘Base’ for a cream, and then you can add what ever fragrances or essential oils you wish.

An example of herbs could be Calendula, Arnica, Elderflower or Comfrey, but the best way is to research either one of my posts from my Herbal Compendium or Herbs for Help, or find a suitable herbal book recommending a herb for the condition.

  • Choose 15g / 1/2oz of your chosen herb
  • Steep this herb in 250ml / 1/2 pint of boiling hot water for 20 minutes
  • Finely strain or filter this tea/infusion into a container
  • Place 30g / 1oz of olive oil in a double boiler or place a saucepan in a pot of very hot but not boiling water
  • Then add 15g / 1/2oz of beeswax
  • Also add 15g / 1/2oz of lanolin
  • And begin melting them together
  • As they are melting, dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of borax into the infused tea above
  • Once the beeswax and lanolin are fully melted in, reduce the heat and slowly stir in the tea
  • Continue stirring the mix and when ‘just warm’ add a few drops of essential oil
  • Once it begins to thicken, place this into small sterile pots, clean the rims and label
  • Keep these in the fridge, and once opened, they should last about 2 -3 weeks

The borax is only to function to prevent mould.

My video of how to make a basic cream at home, there is no verbal instruction

Healing Cream

Ingredients

  • Fresh flowers – handful
  • 150ml of your chosen oil (maybe Calendula or a herbal oil will be more affective)
  • 50ml of pure water
  • 50 grams of beeswax
  • 10 drops of Vitamin E (you can use Vitamin E gel capsules)
  • Optional: 30 drops of the essential oil of your choice

Method

  • Put the water in a saucepan and bring it into a boil
  • Turn it off and add the flowers
  • Allow to steep until the water is room temperature
  • Strain out the flowers and put them into the compost bin
  • Place the flowers into a cloth or bag and squeeze out the remaining juice
  • Put the ‘flower tea’ back into the saucepan with a lid
  • Take a double boiler and melt the beeswax
  • Add the oil to the melted beeswax and make sure it is completely combined
  • Add the Vitamin E and stir
  • Raise the temperature of the flower tea to the same as the oil/beeswax mix (70 C / 158 F)
  • Remove the oil/beeswax saucepan from the heat
  • Carefully and very slowly add the flower tea to the oil/beeswax mix, whilst stirring it constantly with a mixer (this can be done in a blender) approximately 1 tablespoon at a time
  • Once the mix has become white and stiff as a cream should be, start adding the essential oils, 2 drops at a time stirring them in
  • When finished, scoop the cream into small ‘sterile’ jars, clean the rim, place the lid down tight and label
  • Store in a cool dark place

The approximate shelf-life is 6 to 12 months

Variations of Creams

To 30g / 1 oz of cream base add one of the following:

  • 5 to 15 drops of an essential oil (see below for some suggestions)
  • 1 to 2 teaspoons of a Herbal oil
  • 1 to 2 teaspoons of a strong decoction or tincture
  • 1 to 3 flat teaspoons of a powdered herb
  • 1/2 to 1 flat teaspoon of a powdered spice

Choice of Herbs for Creams

The point to made when choosing to add a herb to your cream, is what “Actions” does it do? The question you ask yourself is, what do I want this herb to do, do I want healing, pain relief, soothing or cooling, reduce inflammation, stimulate blood flow, or is there an infection? Once you know what you need, that is the ‘action’, then you can choose the right herb for your situation.

But for now, here are a few suggestions: Calendula, Arnica, Elderflower, Marshmallow, Borage, Cowslip, St John’s wort, Fig wort or Comfrey

Choice of Oils for Creams

Some suggested oils for creams could be:

Choice of Essential Oils for Creams

The list below is by no means comprehensive, but would be a place to start.

  • Dry or mature complexions: Rose, Jasmine, Frankincense or Neroli
  • Acne or Greasy skin: Geranium, Bergamot, Mint or Lemon
  • Rashes: Chamomile, True Lavender, Tea tree, or Peru balsam
  • Insect bites: Lemon balm, Bergamot, Clove bud, or Rosemary
  • Bruises: Arnica, Clove bud, Sweet marjoram or Niaouli
  • Boils and Abscesses: Eucalyptus blue, Lavender, Lemon, or Thyme
  • Cuts and Sores: Canadian balsam, Chamomile, Hyssop, or Calendula

Application of Creams

Frankly, all you need to do is gentle circular motions with two to three fingers to work in the benefits, dabbing doesn’t do much.

Safety

There really isn’t much to be concerned about with creams, but minor concerns could possibly be an allergic reaction to a herb, or an essential oil (usually because its too strong or with babies), or in some cases, homemade creams begin to ferment and can grow mould in them, even if stored in the fridge.



Please remember, this blog cannot and should not replace a health care professional, and is for informational and educational purposes only and is not for medical advice or treatment, and no cure is implied in anyway. If you have a known serious condition, or are pregnant, please consult your health care professional, before use.

Kind Regards,

Russell a.k.a Herbal Panda

Website: http://www.theherbarius.com.au

Name Logo

Email: theherbalist@theherbarius.com.au

Sales: sales@theherbarius.com.au

HHAI Logo

“Don’t put your ideas on Ice cream, someone will lick it off, and then you’ll have none”

Herbal Panda

The term ‘Ointment’ comes by two other names, and they are: salve, and liniment, as the terms are interchangeable. So where ever you see either word used, you will know that they mean the same thing.

Ointments have been around for a very long time and indeed Nicholas Culpeper originally published in 1653 about them in his book “Culpeper’s Complete Herbal and English Physician”.

“Bruise those herbs, flowers, or roots, you will make an ointment of, and to two handfuls of your bruised herbs, add a pound of hog’s grease dried, or cleansed from the skins, beat them very well together in a stone mortar with a wooden pestle, then put it into a stone pot, cover it with paper, and set it either in the sun, or some other warm place, three, four, or five days, that it may melt, then, take it out and boil it a little; then, whilst it is hot, strain it out, pressing it very hard in a press; to this grease add as many more herbs bruised as before, let them stand in like manner as long, then boil them as you did before. If you think your ointment not strong enough, you may do it the third and fourth time; yet this I will tell you, the fuller of juice the herbs are, sooner will the ointment be strong: the last time you boil it, boil it so long till your herbs be crisp and the juice consumed, then strain it, pressing is hard in a press and to every pound of ointment add two ounces of turpentine, and as much wax, because grease is offensive to wounds, as well as oil. 2. Ointments are vulgarly (commonly) known to be kept in pots, and will last about a year some about two years.”

In fact, it appears that something like a firm ‘ointment’ could have been used by ancient Egyptians back as far as 1347 B.C. Where it looks like men and women wore cones on their heads, made of wax, most likely beeswax, which some believe was impregnated with a scent. Then under or in the heat of the Egyptian sun would slowly melt perfuming them and working its way into the hair. I suppose this is the first recorded form of scented hair gel?

But what specifically are ointments for?

There principle purpose is to protect and nourish and deliver a medication to the skin. In essence, it acts a lot like a poultice, this is due to their semisolid non-aqueous composition and they are designed to hold to the skin, herbs and essential oils etc., for maximum absorption and any other additives you want to add. Or you could suggest that they are a very thick cream, because they are frankly doing the same, but much stiffer.

Originally, ointments were made from animal fats such as lard, as mentioned by Mr Culpeper above. The reason for this would have been due to its easy availability and general firmness with daily heat. Although you could use the same today, most formulas use beeswax and vegetable oil, which is obviously more acceptable to most people. And these days we know that Lard is very similar to the fat found under our own skin; this is similar to the idea of ‘treating like with like’.

Reasons why to use Ointments and Salves

First, they are designed to ‘stay on longer’, and to increase the affects of the ingredients on the person. They do create a thicker barrier over the area of treatment, protecting it from outside influences and infection, for example. Just as a poultice can draw, clean and disinfect a wound, so can salves, but with ointments you don’t need to worry about applying hot or cold and are much more flexible.

An ointment/salve can be made soft or hard if need be by just changing the oil/beeswax ratios a little, this makes it more adaptable to different areas of the body. And unlike a poultice, can be ready to go at any time once made and you can travel with it too.

And you know what’s in it, very important!

How to make a base for an Ointment

Typical Ingredients:

  • Beeswax
  • Vegetable oil such as olive oil or a herbal oil
  • Powder herbs
  • Essential oils
  • Herbal tinctures
  • Ratio for an ointment is 1/4 cup of ‘melted’ beeswax to 1 cup of vegetable oil
  • Ratio for dried powdered herbs is 28 grams / 1 ounce to a 1 cup of beeswax/oil mix
  • Ratio for essential oil is 1 teaspoon per 1 cup of beeswax/oil mix (much less for infants and children)

Once cooled and firmed, store in a refrigerator and label the containers, so as to not mix it with food.

And finally, it all depends on what you are trying make and how you want to apply it, but if it is too hard, remelt it and add extra vegetable oil, or too soft, remelt it and add extra beeswax. If the ointment contains essential oils, don’t place it around heat, as the oils will evaporate and you will lose them.

Injury Salve

This salve is excellent for injuries such as, sprains and strains, muscle injuries, and bruising.

Ingredients:

  • 500ml of Calendula oil
  • 250ml of St John’s wort oil
  • 250ml of Arnica oil
  • 170 grams of beeswax
  • Enough shallow jars or tins to hold the volume of salve your making
  • Place all the oils into a double boiler
  • Raise the temperature to 65 C / 150 F
  • Place the beeswax into a separate double boiler or saucepan on low temperature
  • Melt until completely liquid (don’t leave it unattended)
  • Slowly pour the wax into the oils, stirring constantly until fully blended and clear
  • Fill all your jars to near full
  • Allow them to sit still until firm

Always clean your pots and pans when the mixture is still quite warm, as it is much easier to clean. You can clean them paper towelling or cotton cloths.

This formula should last about two years, kept in a cool dry place out of the sun.

Healing Salve

This salve is good for small direct injuries to the skin such as cuts and scrapes, and sore, irritated, rashy and inflamed skin.

Ingredients:

  • 50 grams of Plantain/Ribwort (dried)
  • 50 grams of Calendula flowers (dried)
  • 50 grams of Goldenseal leaf (dried)
  • 100 grams of Comfrey root (dried)
  • 1 1/4 litres of vegetable oil
  • 170 grams of beeswax

To make the Herbal Oil

  • This herbal oil can be used ‘as is’ or then combined to make a cream also
  • For best results it is best to keep the herb/oil mix in between 43 to 49 C / 110 to 120 F
  • You can modify slow cookers to do this, don’t use stove tops as they are too hot
  • Heat for a minimum of a week, but two weeks is much better
  • It should last about 2 years, due to using ‘dried’ herbs

Herbal Oil Method

  • Measure the required amount of dried herbs to oil
  • Finely grind or crush herbs until at least a course powder
  • Place these into a wide mouth glass jar
  • Pour in all the oil, mix thoroughly and place on a lid
  • Shake and stir it up
  • Place it in your preferred ‘heating device’ with water outside
  • (If you have nothing suitable then place it in a very warm spot, but not in the sun)
  • Shake or stir it several times each day, as it will settle
  • After 1 to 2 weeks place the herb/oil mix into a cloth bag and tie the end
  • Place this bag in some form of press or tincture press
  • Slowly add pressure until very firm and drain into a container
  • Allow to sit over night to allow very fine particles to settle
  • Finely strain again or decant, and try to leave any sludge at the bottom
  • Bottle, Label, and dark coloured bottles are best, kept cool and out of sunlight

Once this is done, follow the same procedure below, which is the same as the injury salve.

  • Place all the ingredients into a double boiler
  • Raise the temperature to 65 C / 150 F
  • Place the beeswax into a separate double boiler or saucepan on low temperature
  • Melt until completely liquid (don’t leave it unattended)
  • Slowly pour the wax into the oils, stirring constantly until fully blended and clear
  • Fill all your jars to near full
  • Allow them to sit still until firm

Do not make your ointments in aluminium or plastic containers unless you know there are no chemicals which could be drawn out of the plastic. If they contain essential oils the best thing to store them in is porcelain or glass containers and keep them in out of the light and in a cool place.

Choice of Oils for Ointments

The most commonly used oil for an ointment is olive oil, usually due to it being in most homes. But really you can use any vegetable oil, and I would suggest only using an organic oil, and if you can afford it, use certified organic oil. Definitely don’t use cotton seed oil or Canola.

Possible oils could be:

  • Your own pre-made Herbal Oil
  • Olive oil
  • Coconut oil
  • Almond oil
  • Butter
  • Lard
  • Vaseline and paraffin wax (Of which I’m not a big fan)

Choice of Herbs for Ointments

Similar to most herbal oils and creams, really the choice is endless, because it is really a type of thick paste, with whatever you want add in. But a possible selection of herbs you could choose are: Calendula, Arnica, St John’s wort, Comfrey, Goldenseal, Plantain, Ribwort, Chickweed, Powdered Acacia gum, Marshmallow, and Slippery elm.

Variations of Ointments

A variation could be to make a chest rub/inhalant, which adds the essential oils of Eucalyptus oil (2ml), Pine oil (1ml), Peppermint oil (2ml) for each 30 grams of base.

A coconut oil version of ointment could be, 7 parts coconut oil, 5 parts of your chosen powdered herbs, and 6 parts beeswax. Simmer for 1 1/2 hours, and when finished finely strain if there are any course bits, and then pour into suitable jars. Pure organic Coconut oil is a natural preservative.

An old Russian traditional ointment formula still practiced in the country, is where they simmered Marigold, St John’s wort and Arnica in butter. Normally a butter ointment doesn’t last any more than a few weeks, keep in the fridge.

Safety

There isn’t much to be concerned about ointments other than a possible allergic reaction to a specific herb, and being careful with essential oils, especially with babies and infants.



Please remember, this blog cannot and should not replace a health care professional, and is for informational and educational purposes only and is not for medical advice or treatment, and no cure is implied in anyway. If you have a known serious condition, or are pregnant, please consult your health care professional, before use.

Kind Regards,

Russell a.k.a Herbal Panda

Website: http://www.theherbarius.com.au

Name Logo

Email: theherbalist@theherbarius.com.au

Sales: sales@theherbarius.com.au

HHAI Logo

“A true friend can be a fragrant balm to the aching soul”

Herbal Panda

When considering creams, salves, rubs and chest rubs, ointments, bath and massage oils, liniments and some sprays, for home use, one of the best places to start is herbal oils. The reason for this is that often a herbal oil is the primary component of them, or you can just use it straight.

The good news about herbal oils is that they are reasonably easy for the home maker to do at home and don’t need specialised equipment to make either, but I will admit that having some of the right gear does help, such as a press of some form. But this is mostly in the physical part of making things, if you want to squeeze out every little drop.

Herbal oils do come by other terms, such as, Infused or Impregnated oils. The simple reason for these are the way in which the constituents are naturally extracted out of the herbs. Infused: because it has a similarity to a tea making process, and Impregnated: as the constituents are transferred from the herb and impregnated into the oil.

As far as what herb or what part you can use, to extract out the benefits from, doesn’t really matter, as it’s just that some take longer or require more processing than others. You can use flowers, leaves, bark, stems, roots, plus spices and seeds. These can be from fresh or dried herbs as well.

Either way you look at it, it is an extraction process, sometimes called ‘digestion’, due to being somewhat similar to the slow process of human digestion with heat. Being slow, means that it can be very gentle and doesn’t destroy the ‘goodness’ that you are after, especially when extracting out of flowers, for example.

Although making herbal oils is an extraction process, it should not be confused with pure essential oils, as they are not the same, nor are as strong as essential oils. Pure essential oils are extracted from the plant via ‘steam distillation’ and are best diluted with a ‘carrier’ oil, such as what you would used in a massage oil.

Essential oils can be or are often mixed with herbal oils for added medicinal and therapeutic benefits, or just to smell great.

Reasons why to make and use Herbal Oils

One of the best reasons for using herbal oils is the fact that herbs just have so much to offer, such as, being antiseptic and antibacterial, let alone being stimulating at times, for example, using hot spices such as pepper and mustard. As well as helping to retain moisture in the skin, whilst being soothing and lubricating.

Because each and every herb has many different constituents or metabolites in them, some are better extracted than others using different means, and with herbal oils, constituents such as resins, oleoresins and gums are very soluble in oils. Other compounds that can be drawn out are, essentials oils found in plants, alkaloids and even mucilage.

Once these benefits are removed from the herb, they can be applied to the person via the herbal oil onto the skin and then absorbed into the person. I heard from an excellent professor once state that ‘the natural fats and oils just below our skin are very similar to olive oil in structure’, therefore, they would be lipophilic (Fat-loving), welcoming what comes in.

My personal belief is that it is the ‘oils’ that ‘hydrate’ our skin, and water partly helps to hydrate the skin, as water is needed elsewhere. Any change on the skin is mainly due to water improving the inside and this is reflected on the skin.

How to do Herbal Oils

For Fresh Herbs

  • This herbal oil can be used ‘as is’ or then combined to make a cream or salve
  • For fresh herbs you can use ratios from 1:3 up to 3:2, as in, 1 gram to 3 mls of oil
  • For best results it is best to keep the herb/oil mix in between 43 to 49 C / 110 to 120 F
  • You can modify slow cookers to do this, don’t use stove tops as they are too hot
  • Minimum of a week, but two weeks is better
  • It should last about year, as the heat should help to remove moisture

Method

  • Measure the required amount of fresh herbs to oil
  • Finely chop or crush herbs
  • Place these into a wide mouth glass jar
  • Pour in all the oil, mix thoroughly and place on a lid
  • Shake it up
  • Place it in or on your preferred ‘heating device’
  • Shake it again each day
  • After 3 days strain out the herbs
  • Replenish with a new batch of fresh herbs
  • Shake it up and shake it again each day
  • After another 3 days strain out the herbs and repeat at least 3 to 4 times
  • Finely strain and allow to sit over night to allow very fine particles to settle
  • Finely strain again, but try to leave any sludge at the bottom
  • Bottle, Label, and dark coloured bottles are best, kept cool and out of sunlight

This method is very suitable for herbs such as, Elder flower, Rosemary, Figwort, Lavender, Rose flowers, Bergamot, Chamomile, St John’s wort and Mullein.

For Dried Herbs

  • This herbal oil can be used ‘as is’ or then combined to make a cream or salve also
  • For dried herbs you can use ratios from 1:5 up to 1:2, as in, 1 gram to 5 mls of oil
  • For best results it is best to keep the herb/oil mix in between 43 to 49 C / 110 to 120 F
  • You can modify slow cookers to do this, don’t use stove tops as they are too hot
  • Minimum of a week, but two weeks is much better
  • It should last about 2 years, due to using ‘dried’ herbs

Method

  • Measure the required amount of dried herbs to oil
  • Finely grind or crush herbs until at least a course powder
  • Place these into a wide mouth glass jar
  • Pour in all the oil, mix thoroughly and place on a lid
  • Shake and stir it up
  • Place it in or on your preferred ‘heating device’
  • Shake or stir it several times each day, as it will settle
  • After 1 to 2 weeks place the herb/oil mix into a cloth bag and tie the end
  • Place this bag in some form of press or tincture press
  • Slowly add pressure until very firm and drain into a container
  • Allow to sit over night to allow very fine particles to settle
  • Finely strain again or decant, and try to leave any sludge at the bottom
  • Bottle, Label, and dark coloured bottles are best, kept cool and out of sunlight

This method is very suitable for herbs such as, Arnica, Calendula, Comfrey and Goldenseal.

Calendula Herbal Oil

Culinary Herbal Oils

Simple Basil Oil

Freshly pick the equivalent of 4 tablespoons of basil leaves (can be any type), and lightly crush in a mortar and pestle or similar, and as you are crushing add just a little sunflower oil as this will help with the process. Once the leaves are well bruised and mixed with a little oil, add this to the rest of the oil – 500ml / 1 pint.

Place this leaf and oil mix in a double boiler and simmer for about 15 minutes, once done, allow to cool and strain into a suitable sized bottle. This herbal oil should last about one month in the fridge.

This simple method can be used for other herbs such as, Sweet marjoram, Rosemary, Dill, Green fennel and Thyme, and goes great with garlic and here use 4 cloves.

Spice Oil

Here, simply mix 2 tablespoons of either Coriander or Dill or Fennel seeds with a little oil and crush in a mortar and pestle. Once this is done, add the crushed seeds to 500ml / 1 pint of either sunflower or olive oil, plus a few whole seeds, then label and store.

Variations of Herbal Oils

Honestly, just as there are many herbs and spices and possible combinations, so to the number of choices and possible recipes can be tried. But this is just one of its many benefits, why, because you can now adjust and fine tune each recipe to suit your needs and tastes.

Even though I am specifically aiming at herbal products, many people use herbal oils for other uses, one common one is of course cooking. And here, you can still pass on the excellent values of herbs where you can stimulate appetite, aid digestion, as well intensify flavour.

Choice of herbs for Herbal Oils

As I mentioned above, the choice of herbs and spices are near endless, but here I will suggest a few.

  • Arnica: good for injured tendons and ligaments, plus bruises, sprains and pains
  • Calendula: gravel rash, cuts, dry and chapped skin, nappy rash, wind burn and eczema
  • Figwort: burns, ulceration, gravel rash, wounds, even swollen lymph glands
  • Comfrey (root): excellent for broken bones and damaged tendons and ligaments, small open wounds and cuts, dry and chapped skin, nappy rash, wind burn and eczema
  • Goldenseal: a powerful anti-bacterial, use for infected wounds

Choice of oils for Herbal Oils

When choosing an oil for a herbal oil, you actually want a very light oil, meaning one that has very little if any fragrance and this can be sunflower or grapeseed oils. But olive oil is in most people’s cupboards, and works just fine, but you will have an olive oil scent, which is fine really.

Other oils which can be used are jojoba, sesame, almond and coconut oils, and traditionally lard and suet were used to make herbal oils.

But, I would strongly recommend always using oils that are organic, why, simply because just as the “compounds” found in the herb can be extracted out, and absorbed into your skin for health benefits, so can toxins that are in the oils be absorbed into your body. So, I would avoid cotton seed and canola oils, straight out, and where possible, use certified organically grown and produced oils.

Early when my wife and I were first married, we both worked on cotton farms, me on a cotton picker, and my wife operating a module builder, both of us saw just how much chemicals go into these crops.

You can really use just about any oil or fat, it really depends on your personal tastes and flavours, and what you want to use it for, for example a thin or thick oil and your preferred aromas and beliefs.

Safety

Generally, herbal oils are quite safe due to being used topically, but don’t use oils made from pepper and mustard around the eyes or on open wounds, and don’t use arnica on open wounds.



Please remember, this blog cannot and should not replace a health care professional, and is for informational and educational purposes only and is not for medical advice or treatment, and no cure is implied in anyway. If you have a known serious condition, or are pregnant, please consult your health care professional, before use.

Kind Regards,

Russell a.k.a Herbal Panda

Website: http://www.theherbarius.com.au

Name Logo

Email: theherbalist@theherbarius.com.au

Sales: sales@theherbarius.com.au

HHAI Logo

“Everything runs well with the right oil”

Herbal Panda